An extreme wave event in eastern Yucatán,Mexico: Evidence of a palaeotsunami event during the Mayan times     

Javier Lario  Chris Spencer  Teresa Bardají  Ángel Marchante  Victor H. Garduño-monroy  Jorge Macias  Sergio Ortega 《Sedimentology》2020,67(3):1481-1504

The Yucatán Peninsula, Mexico, has typically been considered a tectonically stable region with little significant seismic activity. The region though, is one that is regularly affected by hurricanes. A detailed survey of ca 100 km of the eastern Yucatán and Cozumel coast identified the presence of ridges containing individual boulders measuring >1 m in length. The boulder ridges reach 5 m in height and their origin is associated with extreme wave event activity. Previously modelled tsunami waves from known seismically active zones in the region (Muertos Thrust Belt and South Caribbean Deformed Belt) are not of sufficient scale in the area of the Yucatán Peninsula to have produced the boulder ridges recorded in this study. The occurrence of hurricanes in this region is more common, but two of the most destructive (Hurricane Gilbert 1988 and Hurricane Wilma 2005) produced coastal waves too small to have created the ridges recorded here. In this paper, a new tsunami model with a source area located on the Motagua/Swan Island Fault System has been generated that indicates a tsunami event may have caused the extreme wave events that resulted in the deposition of the boulder ridges.  相似文献   

点吸收式波浪能俘获装置结构优化方法研究     

王鑫  李大鸣  王兵振  韩林生 《海洋与湖沼》2020,51(2):293-297

根据布设海域波浪能资源特征,对点吸收式波浪能装置结构进行优化,可有效提高装置的能量俘获效率。本文以威海褚岛北部海域为装置布设目标海域,在对该海域波浪资源特征进行统计分析的基础上,计算得到装置的直径,同时利用数值软件计算出多组工况下点吸收装置吃水深度和装置固有周期的对应关系,并利用统计学方法得出装置固有周期随吃水深度的变化规律,进而分析得出装置在该海域的最佳设计吃水深度,为点吸收波浪能装置结构优化设计提供了新的思路。该方法对于其他技术类型波浪能装置的结构优化设计同样具有借鉴意义。  相似文献   

我国海洋动力灾害研究进展与展望   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

侯一筠  尹宝树  管长龙  郭明克  刘桂梅  胡珀 《海洋与湖沼》2020,51(4):759-767

海洋动力灾害(包括灾害性海浪、风暴潮、海冰、海啸等)是对我国沿海地区造成破坏和损失最大的自然灾害之一。开展海洋动力灾害研究具有重要意义和迫切的国家需求。本文回顾我国建国以来在海洋动力灾害研究方向的主要进展,重点针对近年来我国在海洋动力灾害数值模拟预报以及灾害风险评估等方面的进展进行综述,并在此基础上提出未来的发展展望,希望给海洋防灾减灾科研工作者提供参考。  相似文献   

木本植被覆盖岸坡上波浪爬升过程的数值模拟研究   总被引：1，自引：1，他引：0  

徐海珏  胡萍  白玉川  杨波 《海洋学报》2020,42(3):10-24

近岸木本植物构成的生态缓冲带作为新型的海岸软防护结构，兼具功能性和生态友好性，在沿海工程建设中愈发受到关注，如何深入开展其防护效果的机理研究是目前亟待解决的问题。本文采用数值模拟方法，在N-S方程中分别考虑树枝和树干的拖曳力影响，提出了木本植被作用下波浪沿斜坡爬升的表面波衰减的连续介质等效模型，并采用MAC法来跟踪自由曲面上的水颗粒轨迹。本文以波浪沿1/30的斜坡爬升为算例，对比讨论了有无植被作用下波浪的传播过程，并将算例结果与以往试验结果规律进行对照，验证了数值模型的有效性。最后，分别讨论了植物枝干的高度、密度、树枝倾斜角度等植被特性和波浪因素对植被消浪效果的影响，得到植被消浪的基本规律。文中的计算结果也可为实际的护岸工程和生态景观设计提供参考。  相似文献   

海岸波浪多次破碎波能耗散模型   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

闫圣  邹志利 《海洋学报》2020,42(9):30-37

在坡度很缓(接近或小于1∶100)的海岸，波浪在向海岸传播的过程中，可能经历多次破碎，而在两次波浪破碎之间将伴随着波浪恢复(波浪恢复到不破碎状态)。在现有海岸波高计算模型中，波浪破碎是通过波能耗散来模拟的，但所采用的波能耗散模型都不能自动考虑波浪出现多次破碎的过程，特别精确模拟这一过程中出现的波浪恢复。本文提出了解决这一问题的新的波能耗散模型，模型的建立是通过在Dally模型中重新建立稳定波能、饱和波高水深比和波能耗散系数，并引入了波浪恢复的判断条件实现的。该模型的波能耗散在波浪恢复区的值很小故能描述波浪恢复区的波浪运动。与实验结果的对比表明，新模型可以适合缓坡情况波浪多次破碎的波高模拟，而且对不同坡度的平坡和沙坝海岸(1∶100～1∶10)的破碎波模拟都可以给出与实验结果符合的结果，并且可以自动识别多次波浪破碎的存在和波浪恢复的发生。  相似文献   

溢油乳化过程C波段微波散射特性实验研究     

舒思京  孟俊敏  张晰  过杰  刘根旺 《海洋学报(英文版)》2020,39(7):135-145

本文基于水槽溢油观测实验，研究溢油乳化过程中表面散射特性的变化。利用全极化C波段微波散射计和矢量网络分析仪等测量设备对易发生乳化反应沥青含量小于3%的原油（A型油）、油田中开采出的新鲜原油（B型油）和经过脱水去杂质处理的工业原油（C型油）进行观测。文中详细分析了在C波段微波下乳化油膜与平静水面的后向散射差异，以及油膜乳化过程对后向散射的影响，结果显示在低风速、无浪的条件下（最大波高低于3mm），原油的乳化反应可通过表面粗糙度和自身介电常数的变化来调制雷达后向散射，并且这两种方式中表面粗糙度的影响占主导地位。对比B型和C型原油在乳化状态和未乳化状态下的表面后向散射，结果显示在各状态下B型油膜表面后向散射均大于C型油，且在VV、HH、HV/VH极化方式下两者后向散射平均差异分别为2.19 dB、2.63 dB、2.21 dB，在20%油膜含水率的乳化状态下差异较未乳化状态时小，平均差异分别为0.98 dB、1.49 dB、1.5 dB，结果表明不同类型油种间由于成分和油膜属性的不同会在一定程度上导致油膜表面粗糙度存在差异，影响油膜表面后向散射。  相似文献   

Morphological and molecular evidence supports the first occurrence of two fishes,Siganus sutor(Valenciennes, 1835)and Seriolina nigrofasciata(Rüppell, 1829)(Actinopterygii:Perciformes), from marine waters of Odisha coast,Bay of Bengal,India     

Barik Tapan K.  Swain Surya N.  Sahu Bijayalaxmi  Tripathy Bibarani  Acharya Usha R. 《海洋学报(英文版)》2020,39(6):26-35

Marine ecosystems provide a wide variety of diverse habitats that frequently promote migration and ecological adaptation. The extent to which the geographic distribution of marine organism has reshaped by human activities remains underappreciated. The limitations intrinsic to morphology-based identification systems have engendered an urgent need for reliable genetic methods that enable the unequivocal recognition of fish species,particularly those that are prone to overexploitation and/or market substitution. In the present study, however, an attempt has been taken to identify two locally adapted fish species, Siganus sutor(Valenciennes, 1835) and Seriolina nigrofasciata(Rüppell, 1829) of order Perciformes, which happens to be the first record in Odisha coast,Bay of Bengal. The diagnostic characteristics of Siganus sutor are: dorsal fin XIII-10, anal fin VII-9, pectoral fin 15,pelvic fin II-3, while that of Seriolina nigrofasciata dorsal fin VI-I-35, anal fin I-17, pectoral fin 16, pelvic fin 5. All COI barcodes generated in this study were matched with reference sequences of expected species, according to morphological identification. Bayesian and likelihood phylogenetic trees were drawn based on DNA barcodes and all the specimens clustered in agreement with their taxonomic classification at the species level. The phylogeographic studies based on haplotype network and migration rates suggest that both the species were not panmitic and the high-frequency population distribution indicates successful migration. The result of this study provides an important validation of the use of DNA barcode sequences for monitoring species diversity and changes within a complex marine ecosystem.  相似文献   

北极薄冰-煎饼冰区域中不同重力波驱动形成海流的敏感性分析     

张雪妍  戴海瑨  赵军  殷何卿 《海洋学报(英文版)》2020,39(3):123-129

A coupled ocean-ice-wave model is used to study ice-edge jet and eddy genesis during surface gravity wave dissipation in a frazil-pancake ice zone. With observational data from the Beaufort Sea, possible wave dissipation processes are evaluated using sensitivity experiments. As wave energy dissipated, energy was transferred into ice floe through radiation stress. Later, energy was in turn transferred into current through ocean-ice interfacial stress. Since most of the wave energy is dissipated at the ice edge, ice-edge jets, which contained strong horizontal shear, appeared both in the ice zone and the ocean. Meanwhile, the wave propagation direction determines the velocity partition in the along-ice-edge and cross-ice-edge directions, which in turn determines the strength of the along-ice-edge jet and cross-ice-edge velocity. The momentum applied in the along-ice-edge(cross-ice-edge)direction increased(decreased) with larger incident angle, which is favorable condition for producing stronger mesoscale eddies, vice versa. The dissipation rate increases(decreases) with larger(smaller) wavenumber, which enhances(reduces) the jet strength and the strength of the mesoscale eddy. The strong along-ice-edge jet may extend to a deep layer(> 200 m). If the water depth is too shallow(e.g., 80 m), the jet may be largely dampened by bottom drag, and no visible mesoscale eddies are found. The results suggest that the bathymetry and incident wavenumber(magnitude and propagation direction) are important for wave-driven current and mesoscale eddy genesis.  相似文献   

Wave Attenuation Performance and the Influencing Factors of A Lower Arc-Plate Breakwater     

LI Xue-yan  WANG Qing  YOU Zai-jin  GUO Wei-jun  ZHANG Jun-bin  ZHAN Chao  ZHANG Zhi-chen  WANG Li-xue  LI Qin 《中国海洋工程》2020,(1):89-98

Comprehensive experimental and numerical studies have been undertaken to investigate wave energy dissipation performance and main influencing factors of a lower arc-plate breakwater. The numerical model, which considers nonlinear interactions between waves and the arc-plate breakwater, has been constructed by using the velocity wave- generating method, the volume of fluid (VOF) method and the finite volume method. The results show that the relative width, relative height and relative submergence of the breakwater are three main influencing factors and have significant influence on wave energy dissipation of the lower arc-plate open breakwater. The transmission coefficient is found to decrease with the increasing relative width, and the minimum transmission coefficient is 0.15 when the relative width is 0.45. The reflection coefficient is found to vary slightly with the relative width, and the maximum reflection coefficient is 0.53 when the relative width is 0.45. The transmission and reflection coefficients are shown to increase with the relative wave height for approximately 85% of the experimental tests when the relative width is 0.19 0.45. The transmission coefficients at relative submergences of 0.04, 0.02 and 0 are clearly shown to be greater than those at relative submergences of 0.02 and 0.04, while the reflection coefficient exhibits the opposite relationship. After the wave interacts with the lower arc-plate breakwater, the wave energy is mainly converted into transmission, reflection and dissipation energies. The wave attenuation performance is clearly weakened for waves with greater heights and longer periods.  相似文献   

威海荣成桑沟湾海域海草床分布现状及其生态特征   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

李政  李文涛  杨晓龙  张彦浩  张沛东 《海洋科学》2020,44(10):52-59

海草床是生物圈最高产的生态系统之一，在氮捕获、碳封存、水质净化及维持生物多样性等方面发挥关键作用。2016年8月通过对威海荣成桑沟湾海域的现场调查，发现分布总面积约为471.72 ha的海草床，种类为鳗草（Zostera marina）、红纤维虾形草（Phyllospadix iwatensis）、日本鳗草（Zostera japonica）和丛生鳗草（Zostera caespitosa），分布面积分别为395.33 ha、37.28 ha、32.74 ha和6.37 ha。鳗草分布范围较广，平均茎枝密度817.0±27.6 shoots/m²，平均生物量646.6±41.8 g DW/m²；红纤维虾形草主要分布于桑沟湾北部养殖池和南部楮岛海域，平均茎枝密度2 649.0±29.8 shoots/m²，平均生物量2 381.3±27.3 g DW/m²；日本鳗草主要分布于桑沟湾西部八亩地海域，平均茎枝密度506.0±26.2 shoots/m²，平均生物量118.3±12.5 g DW/m²；丛生鳗草主要分布于桑沟湾南部楮岛海域，其平均密度为513.0±17.9 shoots/m²，平均生物量为479.1±28.1 g DW/m²。结合历史资料，发现桑沟湾海域海草床严重退化，分析了海草床的退化原因并提出了相应的建议和对策，以期为海草资源及滨海生境修复提供参考。  相似文献